The Modern Pantry

One of the staggering things about Clerkenwell is that you're always a stomach rumble's distance from eating well. Doesn't have to be a big name like Moro or St John - the unfancy Bavarian sausage house 'Kurz und Lang' by Smithfield Market is as fine a spot as any if you're in the mood.

The latest newcomer to Gastronome's Corner is The Modern Pantry, housed in a pair of Georgian buildings on the lovely St. John's Square, opposite the bright lights of the Zetter. One of the buildings used to be a steel foundry; now they're both slicked up in steel grey paint and look prim and proper.

It's pitched as more than a restaurant - pah, anyone can open one of those. This is an all-round lifestyle destination. Open seven days a week from breakfast time onwards, there's a cafe downstairs, plus a shop selling items from the restaurant kitchens for punters to take the Modern Pantry experience home with them, from pastries to full pre-prepared meals. Upstairs is the restaurant proper, though it's not clear how or if the food differs from the cafe.

The chef-owner is New Zealander Anna Hansen, formerly of The Providores, the acclaimed fusion restaurant in Marylebone High Street. So you'd expect the cooking to be good, and it is.

The menu changes regularly, with a line-up of far-flung ingredients - from Manouri bruschetta to Maury jelly, whatever they may be. As my dining preference is several smaller portions rather than one large one, I like the 'small plate' option. The chorizo, date and feta fritters, served with tamarind yoghurt, are particularly good. And I especially love the ice cream, which is inexpensive (£1.50 a scoop) and delicious - sate your sweet tooth on the hokey pokey flavour. Plus, the wine list is strong, and as international as the food, with excellent manzanilla.

But there's something about the place which doesn't spark a passion - I've eaten there twice, but neither occasion made me want to linger. AA Gill was particularly withering in his review for The Times, and the ever-excellent Marina O'Loughlin had similar reservations in the Metro.

I think they have a point: The Modern Pantry is matt and grey at a time when people's fancies have changed to homey and comforting in the kitchen, as in much else. Given the huge number of options around Clerkenwell, does this one have enough to make it a favourite and fill that large space from eight in the morning to late at night? I'm not sure.